Sunset over the Bay of Bengal from Mousuni's beach: fishing boats on the water, people at the tide line
The island · South 24 Parganas

Mousuni Island Travel guide: Baliara beach, four villages and the delta, mapped

An island at the edge of the bay, where the Muri Ganga and the Chinai let go of the mainland.

Villages
4
Open beach
4.5 km
From Kolkata
120 km

At a glance

Nine square kilometres of silt, salt and paddy. Two rivers let go of the mainland here, and what is left of them runs straight into the Bay of Bengal.

01of island
9km²
02villages
4
03of open beach
4.5km
04rivers, one bay
2
PENGUIN BEACH CAMPMousuni IslandKusumtalaBaliaraBagdangaKakramarir Chor

The island, from above

Kolkata to the bay

The delta

South of Kolkata the land breaks into islands, creeks and tide-flats. Mousuni is very nearly the last of them before the open sea.

Map: Natural Earth · village positions approximate

The island

Four villages,
one long beach

Mousuni sits where the Muri Ganga and the Chinai let go of the mainland. It is nine square kilometres of silt, salt and paddy, and it empties straight into the Bay of Bengal.

Baliara
01

Baliara

The seaward edge. Open beach, casuarina, and the wind that never quite stops.

Kusumtala
02

Kusumtala

Paddy, betel groves and brick paths. The island's quiet middle, where we are.

Bagdanga
03

Bagdanga

The river side. Country boats come and go with the tide, and the whole village knows before you do.

Kakramarir Chor
04

Kakramarir Chor

A sandbar an hour out by boat, populated entirely by birds.

A day here

The island keeps its own time

The tide, the boats and the light set the hours on Mousuni. Four of the moments the day turns on.

The wide beach at low tide: boats drawn up on the sand, fish drying on blue nets, the sea beyond
Twice a day01

Low tide

The bay pulls back and leaves the beach wide, wet and mirrored. You can walk out further than seems sensible.

Fishing boat drawn up on the sand
First light02

The boats

The river side wakes first. Fishing boats push off in the half-light while the island is still the colour of ash and rose.

Sunset over the Bay of Bengal
Evening03

The sun going down

No buildings in the way, just the bay. Most evenings everyone on the beach simply stops and watches.

Night sky above the camp
After the bonfire04

The dark

No town glow for miles. Once the fire has burned down, the stars come out properly.

SiltSaltPaddyTideCasuarinaWindBoatsBirds
SiltSaltPaddyTideCasuarinaWindBoatsBirds

Come and see it

A night or two on the edge of the bay